There is water wherever you look, but it is undrinkable.

Water falls from the sky, but, on land flatter than a tabletop, it doesn’t run into rivers and down into the sea. Water seeps into the ground and collects in cenotes, underground caverns with stalactites and stalagmites, blue blue water, fish and turtles. There are rumors that ancient Mayans dropped their sacrifices into these cenotes weighed with heavy stones.

That doesn’t deter us modern men from donning snorkels and masks, showering, slipping into the cool waters, following rope lines into underground caverns lit from underneath with lights, over thirty feet deep.

This Gran Cenote is written up in guide books as having colorful fish, but, for the record – the fish are small, not in a multitude, and not colorful.

On this morning there are tour buses already unloaded, overweight men and women parading in swimming attire, Mayan descendants renting towels and equipment.

There are a few scuba divers who can swim far underwater in the caverns, holding underwater lights and seeing what the rest of us can only imagine.

When they surface, they look exhilerated,

Places where the insides of the Earth open up have always attracted the curious.

I don’t see dead bodies, but my shivers remind me there is much more we don’t see, than what we do.


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