When I eat breakfast with the kids, i sit with Diana, Jenny, and Hannah, an intern at Ms. Sue’s.
This morning the girls want to see pictures on my phone and flip through the camera roll. Kids like to see pictures and really like to see pictures of themselves.
Jenny takes my I Phone and snaps a selfie.
When you take a selfie it says ” See me “, as well as ” love me. ”
I don’t know when I’m coming back to Haiti, but, as Jenny reminds me, ” God knows. ”
She is a natural.
Maybe she will be a photographer, or an engineer, or a mathematician, or a mom, or a teacher, or all of them?
I would like to see that and have breakfast again, one of the kid’s, at our table on the back porch.
For now,my chores are done and I’m flying home tomorrow. It will be a long and tortuous taxi ride to the airport and Ms. Sue and Hannah will go too, drop me off, and then have the driver take them to pick up stuff in Port Au Prince.
These kid’s futures are scary.
Haiti is a place where Darwin’s theory is playing out in the worst way.
When people don’t help each other, their society rots from the heart.
The washer and dryer at Ms. Sue’s starts early in the morning and ends late at night.
With forty two kids, clothes get dirty and, even with throw away diapers, there is hardly time to wash dry,fold, and hang. Some of the clothes are hand washed in buckets in the front yard and girls are most often saddled with this task, though Peter was scrubbing his white sneakers yesterday morning.
Ms. Sue wants the laundry location changed, because, near the house, the soil gets wet and makes mud that gets tracked into the house.
The new laundry area is in the shade, pebbles bordered by heavy rocks borrowed from a collapsed retaining wall next to the guest house.
The girls wash today, but, mostly, they laugh, talk, learn what it is to be a woman in Haiti from one of the staff adults keeping an eye on them.
Clean clothes are a treasure, especially when you have no treasure chest to put them in.
If you walk outside the Christianville front gate, past the security man sitting in a chair with a weapon by his side, you can make a quick right and follow a single lane road into the countryside.
Less than a quarter mile, past the Old Well, you drop in to Haiti Made, grab a smoothie and visit with locals and foreign tourists.
Displayed on tables,walls and pallets are handmade items made by local men and women who are part of a craft co-operative.
Jan is in court today and works the register, takes orders, meets friends who come in with pitches for various community projects. There are Americans living in Haiti and many have Christian intentions.
Love and Grace are operative words today and the smoothies are smooth. My favorite is banana cherry, but some of the kids like banana peanut butter, or cherry lime. They are all made with real fruit.
On this hot afternoon, with heat rising and the feel of rain in the air, going to Haiti Made makes a good comma in another long drawn out Faulkner sentence about hope and fear in a desolate Garden of Eden.
There is the portrayal, in its art, that Haiti is a rural place of simplicity, order, old ways, peaceful, a collage of beautiful colors, shapes, and sounds. This is the Haiti that Gauguin would have painted had he sailed to Haiti instead of Tahiti.
There is the reality of Haiti, in a drive thru Port Au Prince, of collapsed concrete buildings, lingering fires in the street, pigs eating garbage as people sift through it next to them, street shops made from sheets of tin and plywood, hands shoved in your car window selling bottles of water.
The difference between the imagined Haitian paradise and the real fallen city is stark.
Would we rather accept a sentimental vision, or adjust to gritty reality?
Is our glass half full, or half empty?
Haiti is a pot of spicy soup with ingredients we savor, and ingredients we spit out.
Haiti shares its island with the Dominican Republic. Haiti speaks French and the Dominican Republic speaks Spanish. Haiti is one of the poorest countries in the western hemisphere while the Dominican Republic is a tourist mecca with white beaches, all inclusive resorts, stunning landscapes.
Haiti was discovered by Columbus, claimed for Spain, ceded by Spain to the French, and became an independent country when Toussaint L’Overture, in 1804, led half a million slaves in revolt.
In 2003, Voodoo became an official Haitian religion.
There have been 70 dictators here since Independence Day.
Unemployment is around 80% .
The 2010 earthquake that hit Haiti was a 7.0 magnitude with over 300,000 Haitians killed and property damage that has never been rectified.
There is too much Africa and Europe here, and not enough America.
It’s hard to succeed when your own people consider you a slave.
Outside the front gate of Christianville, you take an immediate right to go to Haiti Made, a local cafe, coffee and smoothie shop run by Americans.
An eighth of a mile down the rock strewn, bumpy, water puddled lane, that barely makes a foot path, is the landmark Old Well.
It is called old because it is a deep well drilled in the 1950’s when the Christianville Bible University occupied the hillside above the well. The University was taken out by one of Mother Nature’s hurricanes some years ago and all that is left of it is a concrete shell of a building at the top of the ridge, obscured by battered trees and beat down vegetation.
Often, at this well, there are vehicles, motorcycles pulled off the road while men and women fill yellow five gallon plastic jugs with water to take home for cooking, drinking, and bathing.
I splash water on my face, direct from the spigot, stopping my walk for a moment.
If I lived here,I would be at this well several times a week, like everyone else.
We can do without lots of things, but water isn’t one of them.
The kid meter is shaped like a stop signal with green,yellow, and red lights.
When the green light is on there are bursts of positive energy. Kids seek like minded playmates and act out dramas the length of the dining room. They stay out of each others way and, like water, seek paths of least resistance. There are yells of pleasure, shouts, rising and falling voices harmonizing like a well tuned college choir.
With the yellow light there are the beginnings of malfunction. Small groups disintegrate, individuals grab for the same toy, sharing is a foreign concept. Someone is pushed down by someone bigger or someone is reprimanded by staff for doing a behavior out of bounds even by a child care workers loosest standards.
At the red light, there is loud and persistent crying, by one, several, or many.
At this breakfast, there are 42 children and staff being served, getting books ready for school, visiting, doing dishes, wiping down tables, sweeping the floor and finishing chores. It is not a well oiled machine, but there are good things happening that are reinforced each day over time.